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WEXFORD TOWN |
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Apart from the Viking legacy of narrow, quirky lanes, WEXFORD town
retains few traces of its past, and only the quays suggest that it was
once an important trading centre. In fact, the harbour, in business from
the ninth century, has now silted up, and Wexford has lost its trade to
its old rival Waterford. That's not to say, though, that the town's
history stopped with the fall of the Vikings. Settled by the Normans in
the twelfth century, it became an English garrison town, brutally taken
by Cromwell in 1649 (who had 1500 Wexford citizens put to death). In the
1798 Rebellion, the town saw brave, rebel fighting against the English
Crown (backed by a mainly Protestant yeomanry), which was fearful that
the port might be used as a landing place by the French. The uprising
lasted longer in Wexford than in most places, but the rebels were
finally put down, and the Crown was quick to exact retribution. Wexford,
though, plays down its contribution to Republicanism and has emerged as
a positive, forward-thinking place. It is internationally famous for its
prestigious Opera Festival , while a more mainstream draw are the town's
estimated 93 bars , reason enough to give Wexford at least a night.
The Town
Set on the south side of the broad, featureless Slaney estuary, Wexford
town sits behind its quays, which drag on relentlessly. A waterfront
promenade and marina are planned to cheer things up, but at the moment,
the only relief is The Crescent , where a statue of John Barry , a local
who founded the American Navy during their War of Independence, strides
against the buffeting wind with cloak billowing. Parallel to the quays
runs Wexford's lengthy Main Street, lined with bright shopfronts and
creaking bars, a narrow and winding route that gives some idea of the
medieval town's layout, and a place of some charm. Once you've seen it,
there is little else left to explore. A monument to the 1798 Rebellion
briefly draws your attention to the Bull Ring (part of Main Street),
also scene of a massacre by Cromwell that left all but four hundred of
the population dead. A lane up behind The Cape Bar , famous for being
both pub and undertakers, leads to the Cornmarket and the parallel
streets of the small town centre.
The Westgate , built around 1300, is the sole survivor of the medieval
walled city's original five gates, and is now designated as West Gate
Heritage Tower (run on a voluntary basis with no set opening hours,
enquire at the tourist office; £.1.50/¬1.9); you can watch a short film
here of the town's history. Nearby are the remains of Selskar Abbey (wrecked
by Cromwell), where Henry II spent an entire Lent in penitence for the
murder of Thomas à Becket in Canterbury Cathedral.
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