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TULLAMORE |
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Coming from either direction, from the Bog of Allen to the east or
Boora Bog to the west, the bright lights and solid buildings of
TULLAMORE , astride the Grand Canal, seem welcoming. The town's
Victorian ambience makes it look more English than Irish, a result of
moving the capital from Philipstown to Tullamore in 1834, following
decades in which the British pushed the boundaries of King's County ever
further westwards. Tullamore is worth a short visit but has none of the
attractions of nearby Birr which makes a much better base for exploring
the county. One aspect of its history that Tullamore is attempting to
exploit is its whiskey, Tullamore Dew, which was once distilled here -
though the factory has since moved to Clonmel. The story behind the
smoothest of Irish whiskies is celebrated in a heritage centre , which
also houses the tourist office, on Bury Quay (May-Sept Mon-Sat
9.00am-6pm, Sun 12-5pm; Oct-April Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12-5pm;
£3.50/¬4.44). The centre is set in a fine, converted warehouse and has a
pleasant basement bar and café, though the exhibition itself is
painfully dull and doesn't justify the entrance fee, despite the fact
that the price includes a complimentary whiskey.
The main reason for visiting Tullamore, however, is Charleville Forest
Castle (April-May Sat & Sun 2-5pm; June-Sept Wed-Sun 11am-4pm; Oct-March
by appointment on tel 0506/21279; £3.50/¬4.44), an extraordinary
Georgian-Gothic mansion built in 1779 to the designs of Francis Johnston.
The surrounding estate is wonderfully spooky, with a Gothic element
suggestive of a horror movie - castellated turrets, shady trees and
clinging ivy - while the house in the centre of the estate, surrounded
by a second wall topped by urns, is a secretive, eerie place. With its
splendid old trees, leafy walks and even a grotto, the place has plenty
of diversions. To get there, take the Birr road out of Tullamore (the
N52), and Charleville's gates are on the right as you leave the town -
about ten minutes' walk.
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