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TOBERCURRY

 
 
 
The district around TOBERCURRY (also spelt Tubbercurry), fifteen miles southwest of Collooney - and indeed south Sligo in general - has a reputation for traditional music: Michael Coleman , the greatest of Irish fiddle players, came from here, and it's also where The Chieftains have their roots. Tobercurry itself is a spruce market town, with its most scenic attraction being the lovely Lough Talt , around four miles away. Although the town is usually devoid of tourists, tourist information is available in Killoran's Traditional Restaurant , Teeling Street - don't miss out on their famous fresh salmon from the River Moy (tel 071/85111). During the summer months Killoran's puts on Irish nights of music and dance. The South Sligo Summer School is held in the town during the second week of July, featuring short courses in music and Irish dancing (tel 071/85010). B&B is available at The Ox Mountain Lodge , Teeling St (tel 071/85007; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), which is pleasant and good-value, and also has a café attached (closes 6pm). Cawley's hotel in Emmet Street (tel 071/85025; £55-70/¬69.84-88.88) is a more formal alternative.

Follow the R294 ten miles or so southeast and you'll reach GURTEEN , once another thriving centre for traditional music, now a place with something of the atmosphere of a ghost town. The new Michael Coleman Heritage Centre , Ceolaras Coleman (June-Sept daily 10am-5pm; Oct-May Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; tel 071/82599, colemanirishmusic.com ) seeks to redress this and promotes the continuation of the living music tradition with evening classes and weekend workshops and puts on shows of traditional music and dance (weekly from April to Oct). The centre also houses a theatre and an audiovisual display on the life of Michael Coleman and a series of touch-screen interactives with detailed information on traditional music, instruments and their manufacture. A few miles west of Gurteen a further group of buildings includes a replica of the fiddler's home and an archive of south Sligo music. Gurteen is also the focus for the Coleman Traditional Festival at the beginning of September, and there are a couple of pubs that are likely to have music at other times: Teach Murray has a session on Mondays; Róisin Dubh has spontaneous music-making throughout the year.

Lough Gara , tucked away in the southernmost pocket of the county, is not as appealing as the map suggests it might be, having a very undramatic surrounding shoreline. Moygara Castle , signposted near the lake, is similarly anticlimactic, with just one of its original four towers left intact.
 
 
 
 

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