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RING (AN RINN) |
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RING , or An Rinn as it is known in Irish, is a pocket of Irish
tradition hidden away on the modern Waterford coast, signposted off the
N25 about six miles outside Dungarvan. It's a tiny Irish-speaking
community of about 1500 that has somehow survived in what is otherwise
one of Ireland's more developed counties, and all the more remarkable
given the "West Brit" flavour of much of the county's coast. The
language survives healthily, as do other traditions, notably music and
set dancing.
Like many Irish-speaking areas, the community consists of farms and a
handful of bars spread over a wide area, with no real centre. This can
be frustrating if you don't have transport, as you have to rely on
hitching to and from some of the best bars - the real draw here, as
there's little to see, other than the way of life. Mooney's is the first
pub on the way into Ring if you are travelling from Dungarvan. It's a
great spot for traditional music, and the owners will let you camp in
their field. Other bars for traditional music are The Seanachie , just
off the N25, about six miles west of Dungarvan (Thurs & Sat), and nearby
The Marine Bar (summer daily, except Wed; rest of year Mon, Sat & Sun
only). The Oyster Festival over the first weekend in August is a real
high point in Ring's music calendar: book accommodation in advance over
this period or take a tent. At other times, you should have no trouble
finding a bed at the pleasant little hostel , Ceol na Mara - the owners
also offer B&B in their spacious nineteenth-century house (tel
058/46425, desibeau@eircom.net; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79). Other options
include the welcoming, well-run Aisling , Gurtnadiha, Ring (tel
058/46134; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), in a fabulous spot overlooking
Dungarvan Harbour, or Helvick View , Ring (tel 058/46297;
£33-40/¬41.90-50.79).
When the tide's out, you can walk a few miles west of the quayside
towards Dungarvan, and out along a sand spit. Alternatively, you could
walk along the cliffs at Helvick Head to gain splendid views of the
sculpted coastal cliffs and of the mountains inland.
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