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NEWCASTLE WEST |
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Between Rathkeale and Newcastle West a signpost points to Ardagh,
the ring fort where the wonderful Ardagh Chalice was found in 1868 (it's
now in the Dublin National Museum). The site here is unimpressive,
however, and it's not worth dragging yourself off the main road. Press
on, instead to NEWCASTLE WEST to look at the Desmond Banqueting Hall (mid-June
to mid-Sept daily 9.30am-6.30pm, £1/¬1.27). The hall is on the main
square and very little fuss is made of it; but it's part of a scattered
and hidden complex of ruined buildings - a keep, a peel tower, a bastion
and curtain wall. Even though this was once the principal seat of the
Fitzgeralds, the town hasn't harnessed its history to its advantage. The
hall is in a near perfect state of preservation, and ready for an
inspired restoration. At present, apart from a marriage fireplace said
to have been imported from Egypt, it's all bare.
There are several small B&Bs in town - try Mrs Burke on Bishop Street
(tel 069/62287; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79); you can also get food and rooms at
the Courtney Lodge Hotel (tel 069/62244; £70-90/¬88.88-114.28).
Glenquin Castle is another well-preserved but entirely deserted tower
house, about five miles south of Newcastle West, just outside the
village of Killeady. To find it follow the N21 from Newcastle West
towards Abbeyfeale; the road to the castle is signposted after a few
miles on the left by a petrol station. It has very good views of the
countryside, but is really only worth a stop if you're passing by
anyway. If you have children in tow, you might prefer to visit
Springfield Castle Deer Centre (summer daily 1-6pm) outside
Dromcollogher, about ten miles south of Newcastle West. There are pets
for children to handle, and a tractor trailer takes you on a tour past
herds of deer, so tame they feed from your hand.
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