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MULLINGAR |
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MULLINGAR , the chief town of Westmeath, is a raucous, wheeling-and-dealing
provincial capital, constantly choked with traffic - the sort of thing
most people come to Ireland to escape. While it's the centre of a rich
cattle-rearing area and its preoccupations essentially rural, Mullingar
is a far cry from the sleepy towns further west, and you get the
impression that this big trading centre is on a short lead from Dublin.
In 1951 Mullingar hosted a traditional music festival which evolved into
the annual celebration of Irish music, the Fleadh Cheoil (Festival of
Music), which only took place once again in the town, in 1963, and now
moves from town to town throughout the country. You're unlikely to be
bowled over by the beauty of the place, but Mullingar is a good base for
exploring the county and a convenient stopover on the journey west.
One of the town's few points of interest is the cathedral , an
uninspiring Neoclassical structure whose tapering twin towers, which
look like melting candles, are visible from the south of town. Inside,
behind the side altars of St Patrick and St Anne, are two well-known
mosaics by the Russian artist Boris Anrep. To get into the
Ecclesiastical Museum - whose contents include many wooden penal crosses
and the vestments of St Oliver Plunkett - ask for the key at the
parochial house, on the right (June-Sept Wed, Sat & Sun 3-4pm; guided
tours £1/¬1.27).
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