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MILTOWN MALBAY AND SPANISH POINT |
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The coastline north of Kilkee is one of fine cliffs and sandy
beaches, though not all of them are accessible. Those which are include
Doonbeg, a relaxing spot where you might see seals and otters, and about
a mile further north the beautiful White Strand - both of which are Blue
Flag beaches and ideal for swimming. Doughmore beach near Quilty, about
eight miles north of Doonbeg, is excellent for experienced surfers,
though swimming is not advised here. Strand Camping (tel 065/905 5345)
is a small family-run site located right by the beach at Doonbeg at the
mouth of the Doonbeg River.
The Victorian resort of MILTOWN MALBAY , eighteen miles north of Kilkee
and situated some way inland, comes alive for the Willie Clancy Summer
School, held here usually during the first or second week in July, when
it's packed with traditional music enthusiasts from all over the world
(and booking accommodation well in advance is essential). Clancy's and
O'Friel's (also known as Lynch's ) bars are likely to be lively any time
during the summer, and The Crosses of Annagh , about two miles south of
Miltown Malbay on the road towards Mullagh, has excellent music sessions
(Thurs summer; Sat year round). For B&B , there's An Gleann (tel 065/708
4281; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79) and Malone's (tel 065/708 4246;
£26-33/¬33.01-41.90), both on the Ennis road, or you could try The
Station House (tel 065/708 4008; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), on the Lahinch
road.
Two and a half miles away you'll find an excellent sandy swimming beach
at SPANISH POINT , so called because it was here that survivors from
wrecked Armada ships swam ashore, only to be executed by the High
Sheriff of Clare. It's a holiday spot for nuns, and appropriately enough
has a very quiet campsite , Lahiff's Caravan and Camping Park (closed
Oct-March; tel 065/708 4006). Other places to stay include Atlantic Star
(tel 065/708 4782; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), a spacious, modern B&B just
across from the golf course on the main N67, and a couple of new hotels
: Armada Hotel (tel 065/708 4110, www.iol.ie/~armada/index.htm ;
£70-90/¬88.88-114.28) and the Bellbridge House Hotel (tel 065/708 4038;
£70-90/¬88.88-114.28).
To the east of Spanish Point, Slieve Callan rises beside the main road
to Ennis. Taking this road you pass Knocknalassa, where there's an
impressive wedge-shaped gallery grave, known as Diarmuid and Gráinne's
Bed (after the Irish version of the Tristan and Isolde story). It's
quite tricky to find: five miles along the road from Miltown Malbay you
will pass a house with a thatched little barn alongside; the grave is
about half a mile further east from here, tucked out of sight behind a
hummocky rise to the left of the road. Follow the cows - it's worth
seeing.
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