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MALIN |
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Four miles north of Carndonagh, and approached via a ten-arched
bridge, is MALIN village, tucked picturesquely into the side of
Trawbreaga Bay. A planter settlement with a charming grassy Diamond, it
has two pubs, McClean's and McGonnigle's , as well as the recently
renovated Malin Hotel (tel 077/70645, malinhotel@eircom.net ;
£55-70/69.84-88.88) which hosts a variety of entertainments.
A little way north of Malin a signpost shows the way to Five Fingers
Strand , across the bay from Doagh Isle - it's worth the diversion to
experience the ferocity of the breakers on the beach and the long walks
on its sands. Following the "Inishowen 100" signs will next lead you
around Knockamany Bens, from which there are tremendous views of the
strand and, occasionally at low tide, of the wreck of the Twilight which
sank in 1889 en route to Newfoundland.
Twelve miles north of Malin village, Malin Head , the northernmost
extremity of Ireland, might not be as stupendous as other Donegal
headlands but is nevertheless excellent for blustery, winding coastal
walks - and for ornithologists: choughs, with their glossy black plumage
and red legs and bill, inhabit the cliffs and the rasping cry of the
rare corncrake can be heard in the fields. The headland's tip is marked
by Bamba's Crown , a ruined signal tower, built in 1805. The words "S.S.
Eire" ( Saor Stát , "Free State") are written below the tower. Five
miles offshore is the now-deserted Inishtrahull Island , though boats
from the pier at Bulbinbeg (a half-mile walk from Farren's bar) will
take you there in summer. Some say its name translates as the "Island of
Yonder Strand", though others claim its meaning derives from a legendary
murder - "Island of the Bloody Strand" or even "Shore Grave". Whatever
the case, the island is composed of the oldest rock in Ireland, Lewisian
gneiss that is two billion years old. Continuing a walk on Malin Head,
the western path from Bamba's Crown heads out to Hells Hole , a 250ft
chasm in the cliffs, which roars with the onrushing tide. Past the
Seaview Tavern to the east, a path leads to the Wee House of Malin , a
hermit's cell in the nearby cliff, once the home of St Muirdealach,
where there's a "wishing-chair".
B&B places on the headland include Barraicin (Easter-Oct; tel 077/70184;
£26-33/33.01-41.90) and High View (tel 077/70283; £26-33/33.01-41.90),
both overlooking the Atlantic. There are a couple of excellent hostels
here too. The Malin Head Hostel (open all year, but advance booking
necessary Nov-March; tel 077/70309), just past the post office on the
way into Bulbinbeg, is well-equipped and has private rooms, and the
owner, who also offers reflexology and aromatherapy, is a mine of
information on the area. Alternatively, Sandrock Holiday Hostel (tel
077/70289, sandrockhostel@eircom.net ), at Port Ronan Pier - fork left
at the Crossroads Inn - has dormitory accommodation, wonderful sea views
and bikes for rent. The best place to eat is The Cottage (March-May Sun
1.30-6.30pm; June-Sept Mon-Sat 11am-6.30pm, Sun 1.30-6.30pm), a restored
thatched cottage on Malin Head near Bamba's Crown; apart from the fine
tea room, with salmon available in season, there's tourist information
here and traditional sessions in summer. Both the Seaview Tavern (with a
tiny public bar-cum-hardware shop) and the Bree Inn serve meals and have
music on Saturdays, while Farren's bar is a cosy place to sit and chat
to the locals.
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