|
| |
|
KINVARRA |
| |
|
|
| |
Set in the southeasterly inlet of Galway Bay, the charming little
quayside village of KINVARRA ( Cinn Mhara which means "sea headlands" in
Irish) is something of a satellite playground for Galway city. Down at
the tranquil harbourside, with its smattering of pubs and restaurants,
swans drift across the water to Dunguaire Castle. The castle (mid April-Sept
daily 9.30am-5.30pm; £2.75/¬3.49) was built in 1520 and is a
particularly good example of a tower house . These tower houses or "castles"
were in fact fortified houses, very much a fashion for wealthy
landowners from 1450 to 1650, and are found in their greatest
concentration in east Clare, east Limerick and south Galway. This is a
great one to visit, as the guide delivers a vigorous interpretation of
both local history and the political importance of the old building.
Back in the main street, locals are not quite sure what to make of a new
landmark: The Merriman Inn and Restaurant (tel 091/638222;
£70-90/¬88.88-114.28), which claims to have the largest thatched roof in
the country (thatch from Turkey, thatchers from England). It has
tasteful interiors, comfortable bedroms, a fine restaurant, a Design
Ireland shop and a pleasant bar M'Asal Beag Dubh . All in all,
Kinvarra's a lively spot and, there's enough variety in the area to
warrant a reasonable stay between the rigours of Burren-walking and
Galway city-life. In winter you'll need your own transport but in summer
bus #50 serves Kinvarra from Galway city. The informative Kinvarra: A
Ramblers Map and Guide , by Anne Korff and Jeff O'Connell (£1.95/¬2.47),
is available in the post office and at Dunguaire Castle and is worth
buying for exploration of the immediate countryside.
For location, Cois Cuain B&B (tel 091/637119; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), down
by the quays, is hard to beat. Also recommended is Larkin's Barn Lodge
(tel 091/637548; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), a friendly country house set back
off the road, five minutes' drive from the village towards Ballyvaughan.
The IHH-affiliated Johnston's Hostel on Main St, (closed Sept-May; tel
091/637164; £26-33/¬33.01-41.90) offers good communal accommodation and
also caters for campers. To lose yourself in Connemara's rugged beauty,
however, it's best to make your way a few miles out of town to the
hostel in Doorus . Bikes can be rented from McMahon's filling station
for £6/¬7.56.
Good places to eat include The Café on the Quay , serving seafood,
salads and sandwiches. The Pier Head Bar and Restaurant is similarly
appealing and has a good reputation locally, while The Merriman Inn on
Main Street serves bar food till 10pm in summer and also has a formal
restaurant. Kinvarra's bars are worthy of exploration: The Auld Plaid
Shawl is a good starting point, with a mixed clientele; Winkles can be
great fun, especially if you join in the set dancing on a Friday night;
Tully's is a charming place for a civilized pint; and The Pier Head is a
lively spot which frequently has music. Kinvarra's early spring festival
, the Fleadh na gCuach (the Cuckoo Fleadh), is held over the May bank
holiday weekend, while the Cruinniú na mBáid (the Meeting of the Boats)
usually takes place over the second weekend in August and involves,
along with singing and dancing, the racing of Galway's traditional
fishing vessels - Galway hookers - which can often be seen docked in the
harbour.
|
| |
|
