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GORTIN AND PLUMBRIDGE

 
 
 
If you're tackling the Sperrins to the north of Omagh, there are really only two villages that can offer you any amenities at all - Gortin and its near-neighbour Plumbridge . And even these are comatose for much of the year.

GORTIN , ten miles north of Omagh and served by three buses daily, is a long one-street village with a surprising number of pubs , one of which, the Badoney Tavern , offers lunches and evening meals . Alternatively, there's an innovative menu at The Pedlar's Restaurant . The Ulster Way passes through Gortin, though the signposting which should connect it with Goles Forest is at the moment incomplete and stops at Craignaddy (984ft), two and a half miles north. However, the signposted Way does continue to the south of Gortin through the forest park, with its little loughs and wild deer, before swinging west to low farmland and the Ulster American Folk Park . Accommodation is available at the Gortin Outdoor Centre hostel (July-Sept; tel 028/8264 8083), fifty yards south of the village crossroads, or the newly-opened self-catering Gortin Village Accommodation on Main St (tel 028/8264 8346; £163-£325; sleeps 4-6). For camping , head to the Gortin Glen Caravan Park (tel 028/8164 8108), three miles south on the Omagh road (3 buses daily); the site also has self-catering cottages. Smaller, but far more attractive, is the Gortin Glen Forest Park campsite opposite (tel 028/8164 8217), a good place to stay if you're contemplating some hill-walking.

A little over three miles south of Gortin is the Ulster History Park (April-Sept daily 10am-5.30pm; July & Aug closes 6.30pm; Oct-March Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; last admission 1hr before closing; www.omagh.gov.uk/uhpindex.htm ; £3.75), which features full-scale reconstructions of buildings in Ireland from 7000 BC up to the seventeenth century. Inside there are videos and displays that serve to distract in bad weather, but far more rewarding is the interactive tour on which a guide talks you round such authentic traditional dwellings as a stinking deerskin-covered teepee, shows you how to chip flint, explains ancient symbols and answers questions expertly, no matter how daft they are. The rath, crannóg and medieval castle are particularly interesting, and the latest addition is a seventeenth-century Plantation settlement.

PLUMBRIDGE , three and a half miles north of Gortin, sits clustered prettily on the banks of the Glenelly River. Apocryphally, it gets its name from the building of the village bridge: the engineer in charge didn't have a plumb line and so, from his scaffolding, spat in the water, using his spit to take the perpendicular. There's little here beyond a few bars and a couple of shops, and the liveliest times are during the annual Glenelly sheepdog trials in August. However, you might encounter the odd optimistic gold panner, convinced that the river's waters hold the key to their fortune.

Three and a half miles east of Gortin (on the B46 Creggan Road) is the tiny village of ROUSKEY , with the ruins of a "sweat lodge", an early form of sauna (after the steam treatment, the luckless invalid was plunged into the icy stream nearby). Widespread use of sweat lodges died out after the Famine years, possibly because the experience of typhoid that accompanied the Famine dealt a severe blow to people's confidence in traditional medicinal treatments, but some were still functioning up to the 1920s. Also in the village is Teach Ceoil (tel 028/8167 1551), a restored stone barn worth investigating for its regular evenings of traditional music and dancing.
 
 
 
 

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