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ENNISKILLEN |
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A pleasant, conservative little town of around eleven thousand
people, ENNISKILLEN sits on an island like an ornamental buckle, two
narrow ribbons of water passing each side connecting the Lower and Upper
lough complexes. The strategic strength of this position has long been
recognized - indeed, the town takes its name from Innis Ceithleann , "the
island of Kathleen", wife of Balor , who sought refuge here after a
defeat in battle. Later the island became a Maguire stronghold before
William Cole, a planter from Cornwall, was appointed governor in 1607.
The town played a major role in the 1641 Rebellion and the later
Williamite wars, the latter leading to the formation of its two famous
regiments, the Inniskilling Dragoons and the Royal Inniskilling
Fusiliers , which played a significant role in the victory at the Battle
of the Boyne.
With its historic castle and proximity to the elegant Castle Coole ,
plus a town centre relatively unspoilt by shopping developments,
Enniskillen is worthy of a day's visit in its own right. It's also
ideally situated as a base for exploring Lough Erne and touring the
attractive local countryside. However, the name Enniskillen is still
associated primarily with one of the most devastating atrocities of the
Troubles. On Remembrance Day 1987, an IRA bomb killed eleven and injured
61 people as they gathered to commemorate the dead of the two world wars.
The resulting widespread outrage was instrumental in directing parts of
the Republican movement towards seeking a political solution to the
Troubles.
The Town and around
Waterways loop their way around the core of Enniskillen, their glassy
surface imbuing the town with a pervasive sense of calm and reflecting
the mini-turrets of Enniskillen Castle . Rebuilt by William Cole, it
stands on the site of the old Maguire castle damaged by siege in 1594,
next to the island's westerly bridges. Cole's additions show obvious
Scottish characteristics in the turrets corbelled out from the angles of
the main wall. The castle houses the Watergate History and Heritage
Centre (July & Aug Mon, Sat & Sun 2-5pm, Tues-Fri 10am-5pm; rest of year
closed Sun; Oct-April closed Sat; £2), depicting life in the fifteenth
to seventeenth centuries through models and audiovisual exhibits,
archeological displays in the arcaded barracks and, in the keep, the
Regimental Museum of the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers (same ticket), a
proud and polished display of the uniforms, flags and paraphernalia of
the town's historic regiments.
The centre invites strolling: the main street undulates gently, lined
with confident Victorian and Edwardian town houses, thriving shops and
smart pub fronts. This street changes its name five times between the
bridges at either end, running from Ann Street to East Bridge Street:
lanes fall to either side down towards the water, and clustered together
are three fine church buildings, Church of Ireland, Catholic and
Methodist. Much of Enniskillen's character comes from wealth based on
the care of a colonial presence. Evidence of British influence is
widespread: on a hill to the west the stately Portora Royal School
overlooks the town, discreetly reminding one of the continued elitism in
the social order. It was founded by Charles I in 1626, though the
present building dates from 1777; old boys include Oscar Wilde - the
pride of the school, until his trial for homosexuality - and Samuel
Beckett . Over on a hill to the east, Cole's Monument , a statue
commemorating one of Wellington's generals, keeps an eye on the town
from Forthill Park; catch the park-keeper and pay to ascend to the
viewing gallery (May-Sept daily 2-6pm; 70p). Immediately below is the
war memorial, scene of the 1987 bombing.
On Down Street, just off the High Street, the Buttermarket is a craft
and design centre with a range of artisans working onsite all year round.
These wonderfully renovated dairy market buildings date from 1835, and
during the summer you'll find music and theatrical displays in the
enclosed, yet airy courtyard. You can buy direct from the craft workers
or from the shop attached to Rebecca's excellent coffee shop. For
something less sedate, Thursday's general street market on Forthill
Street is worth a trip.
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