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DOORUS |
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In addition to all its other attractions, this part of south Galway
is closely associated with the poetry of the literary revival group of
Yeats, Lady Gregory, AE and Douglas Hyde; it was in what is now the An
Óige hostel in DOORUS (out on the peninsula four miles northwest of
Kinvarra) that the idea of a national theatre was first discussed -
later to become the Abbey Theatre in Dublin. The hostel was then the
home of Count Florimond de Basterot, who entertained and encouraged the
group (and also the likes of Guy de Maupassant and Paul Bourget); it's
easy to appreciate how the group's romantic nationalist and artistic
sensibilities were stirred in this serene location. Given the political
implications of the Irish literary revival, it's perhaps ironic that
Count Florimond's cash came from French estates which his fleeing
aristocratic ancestors had somehow hung on to despite the Revolution.
Doorus is on a small peninsula of the same name that was an island until
the eighteenth century. The village has only a pub and a shop, and you
can stay at the welcoming An Óige hostel (tel 091/37512), which can be
reached on the Galway-Doolin bus (simply ask to be let off at the hostel).
You can also camp down by the beach, though you will have to pay a small
charge. One of the best B&Bs is Burren Farm View (tel 091/637142;
£33-40/¬41.90-50.79) with great views of the Burren hills. The gentle
waters to the south are pleasant, tidal backwaters that contrast sharply
with the wide sweep of Traught Blue Flag beach to the north, which is
stony but safe for swimming and surfing - there's a lifeguard on duty in
summer. The beach at Parkmore, to the northeast, however, is dangerous.
Along this coast, mussels are free for the picking - ask a local for the
good spots. You can walk the coastline from Doorus down to Aughinish or
back to Kinvarra, or cycle out to the Martello Tower at Finavarra and
around the inlet of Muckinish Bay towards Bell Harbour.
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