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BALLINASLOE |
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Galway's eastern boundary is one of water: Lough Derg, the Shannon
and the River Suck. The tourist-geared villages are again catering
mainly for the fishing fraternity, but there is enough of historic
interest to warrant leisurely exploration. BALLINASLOE is the main town
in east Galway. Important as a crossing point of the River Suck since
1124 when Turlough O'Conor, King of Connacht, built a castle here - the
remains that can be seen today date mainly from the fourteenth century.
You're only really likely to be here if you've come for the famous horse
fair , which starts on the first weekend in October and lasts for eight
days. The largest of the ancient fairs left in the country, drawing
horse dealers from all over Ireland and England, it gives a fascinating
glimpse into a way of life that is slowly disappearing. The bartering is
very much a game, though a serious one. Generally, both parties know the
value of the horse in question but enjoy the bartering ritual anyway,
with its possibilities of outdoing an opponent. The logic seems to be
that if you're not up to the bartering, you don't deserve the right
price for the animal.
If you intend to visit the fair, you'll have to book accommodation well
in advance. The tourist office , part of Keller Travel, Main St (July-Aug
Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; tel 0905/42131), can give you more information on
accommodation around the region and make bookings. The main hotel in
town is Hayden's in Dunlo Street which is good value (tel 0905/42347;
£90-110/¬114.28-139.67); for B&B try Angela Lyons' Nephin , Portumna
Road, Kellygrove (tel 0905/42685; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79). Bike rental is
available from P. Clarke & Sons, Dunlo St (tel 0905/42417).
The countryside to the south of Ballinasloe makes a dull setting for a
fine piece of ecclesiastical architecture, well worth taking in if
you're staying in the area or heading south towards Portumna and Lough
Derg. From the R357 road five miles south of town, Clontuskert Abbey
looks impressive in this open countryside, like some iron-grey
battleship adrift on the flat and muddy approaches to the Suck. The
church is the only sizeable remnant of the abbey complex, with a
perpendicular west door of 1471, carved with figures of the saints.
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