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BALLINA |
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The busy town of BALLINA , clustered around two graceful bridges on
the River Moy, makes a good place to stock up on provisions and
information; the town is especially vibrant during the two-week street
festival that takes place in July. The elegant Victorian and Edwardian
pub- and shop-fronts testify to a long history of vigorous trading, and
this tradition continues in the rebuilding and energetic business
activity that's evident everywhere. Stock up on smoked salmon at
Clarke's Salmon Smokery on O'Rahilly Street, which also displays an
impressive range of fresh, whole fish in its windows. Keehane's in Arran
Street is a reasonable bookshop.
The tourist office (April-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-1pm & 2-5.45pm; tel
096/70848) is located between the bridges on the side of the river away
from town, and the entrance is guarded by a life-sized picture of
Ballina's most famous daughter, former president Mary Robinson. You can
stay and indulge in some real splendour, with a touch of Gothic-horror
excess, at the Belleek Castle (tel 096/22400; £110-130/¬139.67-165.07).
Take Pearse Street eastward from the centre, and follow the signs; a
left turn will bring you through an imposing stone gateway and to a long
drive through dark forest to a neo-Jacobean mansion in forbidding grey
stone. The Bartra House Hotel (tel 096/22200; £40-55/¬50.79-69.84), a
cheerful and friendly place, and the modern Ridgepool Hotel (tel
096/24600, www.ridgepoolhotel.com ; £70-90/¬88.88-114.28) are other
pleasant options. The best of the many B&Bs are: Whitestream House (tel
096/21582; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), on the Foxford Road, and, four miles
out of town, Jordan's Red River Lodge (tel 096/22841, dolm@eircom.net ;
£33-40/¬41.90-50.79). For camping try the well-equipped Belleek Caravan
and Camping Park (tel 096/71533), a couple of miles north of town on the
Killala road.
When eating , make sure you try the famous Moy salmon. The River Bar Inn
, on the right bank of the Moy, a little downriver from town, does good
seafood as does Gaughans , a great old-fashioned pub on O'Rahilly
Street. The Broken Jug (tel 096/72379) - named after John Banville's
play - a roomy bar and restaurant at the top of Pearse Street, offers a
fine selection of carvery meals. One mile out of town in Quay Village
(follow the river to Quay Road and turn left) is Captain's Table which,
as the name suggests, serves delicious fish dishes. The Old Bond Store
Restaurant and Crafts Shop in Dillon Terrace, makes a good stop for
daytime meals.
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